First: Deleting Files Isn't Enough
The FTC warns that deleting files or reformatting a drive doesn't actually remove the data — it can still be recovered — so you must "wipe" the drive before getting rid of it. The US standard, NIST Special Publication 800-88, defines three levels of "media sanitization": Clear and Purge (which leave the drive reusable) and Destroy (which doesn't). Whatever method you choose, back up anything you want to keep first — sanitization and destruction are irreversible.
Option A: Securely Wipe It, Then Recycle
If the drive still works and could be reused, wipe it. For a traditional HDD, a full-disk overwrite with reputable wipe software, or the drive's built-in Secure Erase command, is sufficient. For an SSD, a plain overwrite is NOT reliable — SSDs keep spare "overprovisioned" flash that software can't reach — so use the drive's firmware Secure Erase / ATA Sanitize command, or a cryptographic erase on a self-encrypting drive (which destroys the encryption key and makes all data unreadable in seconds). Then recycle the drive at a certified recycler.
Option B: Physically Destroy It
If the data is highly sensitive or the drive is dead, destroy it. For an HDD you can drill several holes through or shatter the platters, or degauss it with a purpose-built degausser — but note degaussing works on magnetic HDDs ONLY and does nothing to an SSD. Drilling is a reasonable DIY deterrent but not guaranteed: undamaged parts of a platter can still be read, so professional shredding is the reliable choice. For an SSD, the data lives in small flash chips, so drilling a couple of holes isn't enough — every chip must be crushed or shredded. The strongest option for either type is industrial shredding by a NAID-certified service, which issues a certificate of destruction.
Myths: Magnets, Scratches & Water
A fridge or household magnet is far too weak to erase a modern hard drive — platters need a purpose-built degausser thousands of times stronger, and magnets do nothing at all to SSD flash. Scratching a platter only damages the surface you can reach and leaves most of the data recoverable, and submerging a drive in water doesn't erase anything — once it dries, the data is still there. Skip these; use a proper secure erase, a real degausser (HDD only), or physical shredding.
Where to Recycle a Hard Drive
Back up and wipe (or destroy) the drive first, then recycle it — never put it in the regular trash, since electronics contain hazardous materials. Best Buy and Staples accept drives and electronics for recycling, and the EPA recommends recyclers certified to the R2 or e-Stewards standards. Important: Best Buy does NOT guarantee it wipes your data as part of free recycling — it advises you to remove your data first, or use Geek Squad's paid data-destruction service. For guaranteed destruction with a certificate, use a NAID-certified shredding service such as Iron Mountain or Shred-it (Staples hosts Iron Mountain shredding in stores).